It’s a dramatic drive along the north edge of the remote Beara Peninsula, with views north and west across the mussel rafts and seal colonies in Kenmare Bay, to Ireland’s highest mountains, and the ghostly outline of the Skelligs out at sea. The land ends at the Dursey Sound – where strong tides make travelling by boat hazardous. Yet out to sea is Dursey Island, one of over 100 islands off West Cork – seven of which, including this one, are inhabited. Three families live and farm on this tiny island, and you can take a 10-minute ride – above the waves, on Ireland’s only cable car – to explore it on foot.
There’s a lighthouse, castle ruins, a signal tower, standing stones, and stunning sunsets – known locally as “Europe’s last”. But do take note of the cable-car etiquette in this corner of the world: the residents – with or without their sheep – take priority over visitors in the queue for a crossing.